So the demon jacket broke two needles on me. It was at the sholder seam while sewing in the facing so there was the two layers of the facing, the two layers of the collar, the two layers of the front and then two layers of the back, PLUS the leather yokes. That's...well you can do the math, a whole crap load of layers. I re-cut the facing so there was no longer a shoulder seam, it had a center back seam instead and that solved the problem. Mostly. That and switching to a size 130/20 leather needle. 90 is the all purpose size for everything medium weight, 100 is for denim, 110 is for canvas and leather, 120 is for coated back upholstery fabrics and 130 is for luggage.
So now that the worst part of the job is done I can do the sleeves and then work on the embellishments. That's the fun part. Then I can add the lining and it's done. I'm adding a lining because the blue dye bleeds and I don't what what I am wearing underneath to become blue, too.
After this I want to work on some delicate shell pink cotton voile. I want to make some feminine lace and embroidered blouses. I have some lace thread in the same pink and I managed to find lace tape in the same pink. It originally had some pink satin cord attached so it could be used as a rope edge piping, but I needed the cord and not the tape so now the tape can be used to make tape lace.
Sewing fine voile will be a refreshing change from sewing heavy denim! I just need to be sure to change the needle. A 130 will poke huge holes in the voile. Of course I could say that it's a specialty sewing machine technique to make machine lace and I can write a book and go on Sewing With Nancy and get invited to speak at sewing and craft shows and get paid ridiculous speaker's fees...hey...I think I'm off to sew some fine cotton voile with a size GINORMOUS needle!
Later!
